Just an amazing start in Colombia

Popayan, Colombia, Diciembre 12, 2007

I just experienced a really great day. This day is a follow-up of a little story at the bottom. A woman and her daughters who frequently come to the hostel invited me to their house for a visit and lunch (the main meal of the day here). At the edge of Popayan, a small house, a living room where they live, sleep (in one bed, the three of them) and have a lot of children over to do activities with. E.g. making music, creative activities, etc.

I had a warm welcome, the kids were great, so was the family. I had lunch and was introduced in the ´real´ Colombia. How people live, in parts that are not wealthy, where life is hard on them. I was impressed, in the mean time I really enjoyed this part, the purity of life, for life. It is hard to imagine from a western European perspective how the people live their lives. Even harder to imagine with how less the people have so much joy for life, a great spirit and will.

It was an amazing day, a bit difficult since I was bound to my knowledge of Spanish, but really amazing. Since I could not do all the things I wanted. Therefore I will leave one day later for San Agustin.

ps 1.... It only seems that I have a bit of a complexion.. For real, my arms and face are darker then quite some of the locals... What can I say, South America...

ps 2.... The proceeding story:
"Money is nothing, money is everything"
´It is all about the money, the standards, the house, the car. People measure success according to salaries and financial wealth. People compare, if they want or not. Look with envy at the people that have money, dream of being rich.

A joy for life, grasping life. Seeing the joy in ones eyes, living, feeling life in the purest way. Living it with the heart and soul. That is not about money, it is within the heart. Deeply engraved. Life, love, pure joy, anyone can experience it, just let the burdens fall of, feel the purity of the sun, the wind, the rain. Step out, dance, jump, laugh, feel life! Money is nothing.

They don´t have much money. Only a big smile on their faces. There is a lot of poverty, here too. The people know they don´t have much money, a lot know they don´t need much money (some think they do need money and try to obtain it incorrectly, are they happy?). They are rich, in their hearts, in their souls, living life, loving life. Money is nothing.

A school for small children. Helping them, in their first steps in life. But it is hard, not working with the kids, but... The bank (between all the old building, poor places the only huge, big, expensive places you will find are banks), capitalists. The school will be closed in case there is not enough money. Therefore they sell art, and simple jewelry. To prevent the school for being closed, to bring joy, into the life of these children. Money is everything!

Jumping of joy, almost screaming... So much happiness, pure! A British friend of mine just gave 20 dollars (40.000 pesos) for the preservation of the school. I topped it off to 100.000 pesos (20 euros extra). For them, this is the world, the smile on their faces, the joy they experienced. No words can express that. Money, money is nothing, nevertheless, money is everything.´

The Galapagos Islands!

Yesterday evening I arrived in Quito, from my holiday. In fact that´s what it was, a holiday within my trip, eight days, enjoying nature and its wonders. It simply was an amazing experience, how amazing. It is hard to describe, an experience of a life time.

The first day I started with my flight from Guayaquil to Baltra, being the last person for the day the boat waited for me. The other eight guests were already on board of that amazing catamaran. To my surprise there was one familiar face, a Brit I already met about 5 times before. Not much after my arrival we took off for our first trip, a visit to a mangrove. Here we saw our first animals, like huge (mating) turtles, sharks, stingrays (roggen). After this first already amazing trip we called it a night and started to head for our destination for Tuesday.

As every morning during the tour we had breakfast at 7, disembarking at eight. This morning we went to Espanola. We got off the boat for a wet landing (at the beach) and we were walking in between sea lions, amazing, how peacefull and quiet these were. After watching the sea lions on land we went snorkling. The first out of five times and the snorkling was really brilliant! Several times! During this first snorkling adventure there were sea lions nearby, besides that I saw two huge stingrays at the bottom and probably a small shark.

In the afternoon we had a dry landing at a bay where we went on land and walked between lizzards and boobies, yes, boobies, there are blue footed, red footed and Nazca boobies. Especially the blue footed (we didn´t see the red footed) were amazing...

Wednesday, our third day, guess this was the most boring day on the trip, though it was quite interesting. Learning about the Galapagos history and how mankind destroyed quite a lot of its animal population and vegitation. During the afternoon we had a small rocky hike, on which I slightly hurt my anckle again, what made me decide to skip the snorkling for the day.

On the thursday we went watching giant turtles and the Darwin centre in Santa Cruz. On these places they do their best to preserve especially turtles from extinction. At the Darwin centre they have an old turtoise, which they try to get mating with a related kind. Lonesome George is the last of its kind. Here in Santa Cruz, six more people entered the boat, all Aussies, like an invasion, 15 guests, of which 10 Aussies...

This night we had a long trip ahead, to one of the western and most youngest islands (with fewer tourists, yes!!!). Isabela, Moreno point, getting of the boat, enjoying all the views, walking on the lava grounds and seeing some flamingos in clear lakes in the middle of the lava surroundings. Later on we did some snorkling. The water was not clear, but we saw some turtles. At the end of this trip my memory card was all full and I burned it to a disk. In the afternoon we went to Bahia Elisabeth, with the boat into the mangrove and seeing.... Pinguins, who usually do not live above the Equator. Wow, really.. And besides that some amazing views of colored rocks and the landscapes!

The Saturday promised to be good, it surely was, more then good. At land seeing some leguanas. A nice hike and I cannot help finding these animals ugly, though amazingly interesting. I got some amazing close ups... And we got the one in a fifteen chance of seeing a giant turtle at land. The best thing in the morning was the snorkling, at first I did not have that much faith in seeing animals.. Till I saw some beautifull coloured fish and decided to follow them. Then looking to the right within approx 50 centimeters there was a huge turtle looking straigth at me. Believe me, this is one of the best and most amazing things life can offer, that feeling, so pure! Later on I saw far more grazing and getting close, but that one, brilliant!!

In the afternoon we entered the youngest island, Fernandina, with the latest vulcano eruption last May. Walking over lava rocks the landscapes were great, pure, crabs, Iguanas, sea lions, turtles, etc. I simply do not know how often to use words like magnificent and other superlatives, the experience was worth it.

This evening we again had a long trip ahead getting to our next destination. Bartolome, known from for example master and commander, a famous rock, standard image. After a short walk we were of to snorkling again. Naturally I´m tough, so I was the only one entering the water without a wetsuit (didn´t use one the previous warmer days) since there were to few a board. Luckily I wasn´t really cold, though the others admired my courage (or being a madman) going in without. Well, during the snorkling there were loads of fish, stingrays, then I swam in between to rocka and approx a meter and a half below me I encountered a new amazing experience... There was a 2,5 meter shark, right underneath me, swimming, approx on a meter and a half.. Ok, breath in easily, and out and enjoy the moment. This really made the day!

Later on during the boat trip to Bartolome Dolphins were swimming along the boat and one even jumped up for approx 2 meters, right ahead of us. What an amazing day it was. We visited Bartolome with different vegetation, amongs which the reddish plants and returned back on board. During the evening there were some (more dangerous) sharks around the boat, we celebrated Nicole her birthday and had our goodbye party.

The last morning before departure we walked along the beach and saw some Flamingos again. Then getting of the boat and leaving for Quito.
I definitely left my footsteps on the Galapagos Islands. A holiday I will remember for the rest of my life!

You don´t...

Hola everyone! After a 60 hour bus trip (yes you are reading it correctly) with some delays and so I arrived in Guayaquil, Equador. Arriving at 5 am is not ideal, first staying at a couch (within the walls of the hostal) before people woke up to give me a room.

After getting a room and a well deserved shower I immediately went to the office to book a tour. Well, I´m quite sure you don´t want to see where I will be for the next 8 days. I will return the 3rd of December to Quito. Here I will stay for a few days (laundry, hanging aroudn, updating blog) before going on to Colombia.

It is kind of strange, these 8 days will cost me more then the past 8 weeks (yes it has been that long) but will be worth it.

Well, take care and till the third of December

Machu Picchu

4 am...The alarm rings. I´m knocking at the neighbours door to wake them up. Just ten more minutes, jeez, it is so early. Ok, now it is really time to get up. Breakfast, pancakes and then at five, packed for the day leaving for the bus to the site. We are in the first bus, luckily, an arriving at the site I am probably with the first 20 persons to enter this amazing city, Machu Picchu, the old Inca city, for the royals and their families.

Entering the site the views are immediately amazing, so impressive. Too bad the sun is not showing itself yet. There are barely people on the site and it is simply awesome. First a two hour tour with our guide (while my priority is more at taking photo´s then the stories) and then walking up to Wayna Picchu for an amazing overview of the city of Machu Picchu.

First the tour, enjoying the views, a lama being so kind to pose for some amazing pics. It is simply amazing. The walk up the Wayna Picchu is hard, here I walk with two American girls, while my friends are having a second breakfast. The view is really amazing and I am enjoying it to the utmost. I spent a total of 2,5 hours up at the Wayna Picchu.

Returning at the site it is crowded, very crowded. I´m walking around a bit more, taking some pics before I start the walk (instead of taking the bus, more joyfull, better views) down to Aguas Calientes where we will meet again with the guide and have lunch. (Too bad I twisted my anckle, it gave in to the joy of the hike. Don´t worry mom and dad, it is quite ok) After lunch we headed back to Cuzco.

ps, though it was amazing, I think I rank Petra in Jordan higher than Machu Picchu

Salkantay Trail

The Salkantay Trail, a 4 day trail, three nights through the Andes mountains, ending in Aguas Calientes where the 4th night was spent and on the fifth day a visit to Machu Picchu was planned. We were with a small group, me and three Americans (Brad, Jeremy and Kelley), our guide Alain, the amazing cook Andres and horsemen Pedro.

Tuesday morning, being picked up from the hostel at 4 am. Yes, so freaking early. In a bumpy bus for two hours till breakfast, enjoying the breakfast and the another hour up the mountain to our starting point, soray Pampa at almost 3800 meters. Here we started, going up slightly, till our lunch, with the amazing snow capped Salkantay mountain (6264 m) in our sight. The beginning was warm, though we were gaining hight and the temperature was slowly dropping down.

It was steep, very steep, but amazing. We were longing for reaching the top.. Till we finally reached it, the top of our trip at 4600 meters. Yes... It was freezing!!! Then an amazingly strange landscape followed.. It slowly became greener till we arrived at our camping site for the first night (Huayracmachay). The view from the tent, well, judge for yourself, 6.30 in the morning.

The next day was a long down hill hike. Don´t think it was an easy hike, since it was downhill. Very rocky, it was a bit sunny and it got warmer and warmer the further we got down. It was amazing how the rocky and grass landscape gradually changed. More vegitation and about every half hour completely new plants and trees. The hiking trail went along the river (see pic). Around noon we arrived at Colcapampa, after crossing the river and going up for a while along the trail where even the trail functioned as a small muddy river.

After having another amazing lunch (the food through the entire trip was simply amazing!) we went down to the river for about half an hour and arrived at the hot springs. These natural hot waters contain minerals that are good for your body and health. These hot springs were really hot and delightfull. Besides the view on the river was an amazing one (pic).

We continued our hike for about an hour and a half before arriving to the next camp site at Winaypoco, at 2800 meters. Here we were welcomed by our cook and horsemen and some mosquitos. Luckily I was prepared and learned my lesson in Bolivia. At the last part of the hike it was really great, there were wild strawberries growing next to the trail, mini ones, but delicious! That evening we had some drinks, enjoyed our time and went to bed.

The next day we started at 8 for a short hike down to La Playa, a larger village. It was quite good because the next day there would be another long hike (if weather conditions would allow it) with immense differences in altitude. Right at the beginning we found some wild blackberries to eat (bramen). The trail was muddy and rocky, but good. (see left) The vegetation changed again, so many fruit trees, mango, banana, avocado, passion fruit and many more. Again the vegetation changed, since we were going down another 900 meters to 1900 meters. We arrived quite early, around 12.30 and had the afternoon off in La Playa, just before the rain started. After a game of hearts (resembles hartenjagen), of which the beating came quite hard to my American friends, I played a bit of soccer with some local guys (someone should show them how to play the game :P).

We turned to bed early, since we were getting up at five the next morning for the next hike, where we would also be able to see Machu Picchu. Only..... It rained the entire night. Due to that it was too dangerous to make the hike, especially the steep descent (afdaling). That is why we took the early bus to hydro electica where we took a train to Aguas Calientes. Arriving here we checked into the hostel, enjoyed the first (hot) shower in days and spent the day relaxing and having some drinks. Turning into bed not that late, since the next morning we would get up at 4 am.. To go to Machu Picchu (next blog).

ps, today I ate Alpaca, it was quite good. I´m thinking of trying roasted guinea pig (cavia) later.
ps 2, I booked the buses to Guayaquil, Ecuador. A city at the coast and the best place to continue to the Galapagos Islands.

Lake Titicaca, Copacabana

Copacabana, lake Titicaca, Bolivia, the highest lake you can sail on in the world, over 3800 meters high. I stayed here a total of three nights, the first and third at this hostal in Copacabana, the second on the Isla del Sol. I was here together with two lovely Swiss girls I met earlier on and we hiked for two days.

The first day we hiked from Copacabana to Yampaputu, where we took the boat to the Isla del Sol, really magnificent views, great weather, getting a bit sunburned (easy at almost 4000 meters high). It was a long hike, 18 km, up and down, but it was awesome. On the island we found a hostal, costs 15 bolivianos a night (1,5 euro). And had dinner. It was great there, though there were a few hick-ups with the hostal owner the next day.

The second day we walked across the Island, at a moment we arrived at a gate where we were supposed to pay 10 bolivianos to go to the other side of the island. One of the Swiss didn´t want to, so we went op the mountain, no trails, of the beaten track. Going down via terraces where no tourist even comes. First I simply thought out mountaineer was crazy, lter on I was quite content. These amazing views and being of the beaten track added an extra dimension to it. Great views, etc. though our hike was much longer than normal...

Arriving at a harbour I said goodbye to the Swiss and took a boat back to Copacabana. Where I had dinner in the evening with an American girl I met. The next morning the long trip to Cuzco started. On the bus I met some nice people opening a hostal. I might stay there in a few days.

ps... Did you know that water cooks at a lower temperature at an high altitude?

ps 2, I will be leaving tomorrow to do the Salkantay trail to Machu Picchu

The Hospital

The pampas tour, pampas, jungle, mosquitos, other insects. A day after the tour I found two ticks on my body and removed these small ones myself. Arriving in copacabana I just discovered another just below my belly button, but this one had already grown. Together with my Swiss friends (Anja and Cristina), who also were my company on two hikes in the past two days I started ´the hospital adventure´.

After discovering the tick we decided to go to a farmacie, since it already was quite big I did not dare to remove it myself. At the farmacie they couldn´t help and told me to go to the hospital. I really thought, a hospital for a tick bite, crazy!!

Arriving at the hospital there really was a herd of people waiting outside. I even had doubts of going, but they opened the gate for me as a gringo and we were directed to a waiting room. After approx 20 minutes I was called in ´the doctors office´. The girls outside were really wondering what was going on, a lot of white coats entering the room.. First two nurses admired the tick. One walked away with an ieyyyyyy. Then the doctor came in, got his operating kit and started his procedure. There were three white coats surrounding me, (earlier on even four, admiring the tick) and with some alcohol and more alcohol, explaining it to the others and then getting it out.. Yes, succeeded, he showed me the head... Then he dotted half my body in jodium, on jodium dot and suscribed me antibiotics, a total of 20 pills..

When exiting the operating room the girls were wondering what happened.. Well, we had a good laugh.. Then I moved on to get the antibiotics and pay for the consult.. Don{t be shocked by the immense amount.. 45 Bolivianos, or 4,50 euro´s, even less...

About the hike, that will follow, I´m leaving Bolivia tomorrow for Equador..

Rurrenabaque, police and the pampas

Arriving in Rurrenabaque the people I met on the bus left already on a tour. I couldn´t, since my camera was lost. So I told them goodbye and went back to the bus station. there they phoned the bus driver and told me to come back two hours later. After two hours I found out that my camera was definitely gone, stolen. So I went to the police, waiting, waiting, waiting. There was a german (and no english) speaking italian guy that helped me out a bit with the language. After more then an hour they figured out they could not help me and I had to go to the police station in town.

Arriving in town I was told to come back two hours later, for a guy at the tourist police that spoke english. While waiting I arranged a tour and a copy of my original bill in my mailbox. Returning to the police station I found out that about the only english he spoke was yes and no. The police officer went with me to a canadian friend who helped me out. I had to come to the office again an hour and a half later.. A report by the Rurrenabaque police is first written down on paper. Next they type it over on a computer (the only one), which retrieves its power from a generator. Then they print it, twice, for which they naturally have exactly two pieces of paper and an official stamp. It is hard to give an impression, but it was quite an experience..

The next day, the pampas tour, 2 nights, 3 days. After a long trip we arrived at the river, got in a small boat, comparable to the ones I´ve travelled by a few years ago in Surinam. Along the river we saw loads of turtles, alligators, monkeys, different birds. A great trip of 3,5 hours to the house we stayed at. Once there the mosquito attack started..


The evening was relaxed, good food, a poor night of sleep due to the poor beds and................ Rain rain rain rain.... In the morning it was still raining, though it was dry by the time we left to search for anacondas... Due to the rain it was cold (approx 23 degrees) and the chance of seeing some anacondas was low.. Finaly we found just one (after doing some crocodile surfing, picture will follow).

There was one amazing thing during the tour. Pink dolphins, they were shy, but also great to experience. During a swim (yes, between piranha´s and crocs) they got as close as approx 2 meters. Amazing to experience, these unique creatures.

After fishing for piranha´s and being mosquito bait (especially one part of my back is like a red bumpy mosquito bite landscape) we returned to the casa for dinner and a jungle hike. Then a night of sleep, followed by a (LONG) rainy boat trip back.

Returning here in Rurrenabaque and being supposed to leave this morning at 8 am. Too bad air transport is not possible here when it rains, so I am kind of stranded at the moment in this village. In case there aren´t any flights tomorrow I will try to take a jeep back (uncomfy, 12 hours, expensive)... This is all for now...

ps 1, I'm probably going to fly to La Paz tomorrow

ps 2, yesterday treturning from the trip all of us were quite shocked to hear an Israeli tourist (backpacker) died here in Rurrenabaque that day on a trip. It was wet and slippery and he simply pushed to the edge too far....

Death road

I conquered death road... Well, it wasn´t that hard, though it was quite an experience!!! At the moment relaxing in coroico...

It has already been about a week. The Death Road, an amazing experience, first going down a paved road on the best landscape, clouds hanging in between the mountains, relaxing on the bike, being amazed by th beauty nature can offer. After approx 2 hours going down and stopping at two police checkpoints we arrived at the most important part of the route. The (former, but still) unpaved, muddy, rocky, death road!

Approx. 8 months ago a paved road was opened, an alternative road to Coroico. Since the mud road is rarely used by traffic, though we encountered some 4WD. Regarding traffic the road that cost the lives of 50-100 people annually is much saved. Still, some people die using the road.

It was an adventures bumpy track, fantastic weather, amazing views and viewpoints. Worth every dime. On a lot of parts you solely had to focus on the road. Since the road conditions are quite bad. On one side there is the rocky mountain, sometimes with small waterfalls falling aside you, or just riding through the falling water. On the other side there is th cliff, steep, very steep. Sometimes over 1000 meters deep.

The ride was awesome, at the end where it was saver we speeded up, ending the tour in coroico for a hot shower and great lunch!

In Coroico I stayed for two nights, in the Sol y Luna. Too bad the weather was not what to be expected. After these two days I went on the nightbus (14 hours) from Coroico to Rurrenabaque (where I am now), where I arrived at 5 am, and discovered not that much later that one of my camera´s was missing (small one with the movies).