Death road

I conquered death road... Well, it wasn´t that hard, though it was quite an experience!!! At the moment relaxing in coroico...

It has already been about a week. The Death Road, an amazing experience, first going down a paved road on the best landscape, clouds hanging in between the mountains, relaxing on the bike, being amazed by th beauty nature can offer. After approx 2 hours going down and stopping at two police checkpoints we arrived at the most important part of the route. The (former, but still) unpaved, muddy, rocky, death road!

Approx. 8 months ago a paved road was opened, an alternative road to Coroico. Since the mud road is rarely used by traffic, though we encountered some 4WD. Regarding traffic the road that cost the lives of 50-100 people annually is much saved. Still, some people die using the road.

It was an adventures bumpy track, fantastic weather, amazing views and viewpoints. Worth every dime. On a lot of parts you solely had to focus on the road. Since the road conditions are quite bad. On one side there is the rocky mountain, sometimes with small waterfalls falling aside you, or just riding through the falling water. On the other side there is th cliff, steep, very steep. Sometimes over 1000 meters deep.

The ride was awesome, at the end where it was saver we speeded up, ending the tour in coroico for a hot shower and great lunch!

In Coroico I stayed for two nights, in the Sol y Luna. Too bad the weather was not what to be expected. After these two days I went on the nightbus (14 hours) from Coroico to Rurrenabaque (where I am now), where I arrived at 5 am, and discovered not that much later that one of my camera´s was missing (small one with the movies).

Sucre, la ciudad blanca

Sucre, la ciudad blanca, or the white city. A wonderfull city with colonial churches, buildings, great views, good restaurants. Really a lovely city to stay.

I arrived in Sucre last Wednesda, with the intention to stay for approx 2 weeks +. In order to relax and learn spanish. Friday was my first spanish lesson and I already met quite some people over here, even some of my old mates I met during the uyuni trip.

There is something that might amaze you, there is a Dutch owned bar here, Joyride Bolivia, where I naturally tried the saté and bitterballen. They even have Bossche Bollen at the place. The good thing about the place is that they show movies during the evenings, very relaxed and real good movies, e.g. The Motorcycle Diaries, about Che Guevara, the background of becoming a revolutionary.

This weekend and yesterday it also started to itch, to move on. Since I experienced already quite a lot of amazing things I want more and more. That´s why I decided to depart from Sucre early and leave for La Paz next Friday. From there I will do the death road trip asap, probably with gravity, the best tour agency to do so! Then I´ll stay in Coroico to relax, pool, etc.. For 2-3 days, do not know yet where.. Subsequently I will move on to Rurrenabaque to do a jungle or pampas tour..

But first things first, three more days of Spanish lessons, then taking the night bus to La Paz on Friday!! And enjoy my time here in this awesome city!

Part 2

Last week was a busy week, but above all a joyfull one. Tonight I leave for La Paz, just got some chocolates from para ti (they got their training how to make chocolate in Holland) and getting my stuff and go.. Now just some notes:
- The Devils Miner is an awesome documentary about the life at the mines in potosi, touching, realsitic, recommended!!!
- The meeting place here is the place, I mean for hooking up and stuff, not a bar or any other place, the central plaza is the place for the youth.
- Yesterday (Thursday), the streets were empty due to a strike, a strange experience!
- According to the dutch department of foreign affairs it is dangerous here, a negative travel advice.. Though this is one of the most lovely and peacefull places I´ve ever been to.. Guess they don´t have a clue what life is like here, from La Paz...
- I ate a kind of oliebol, but then with potato and cheese for the shocking costs of 10 cents.
- All the people I met that went to Colombia were hilarious about it, places where they got mugged were in Ecuador and Peru, not in Colombia.
- Wishing you all a great weekend, now I´m of to La Paz, arriving tomorrow in the early morning! Take care!!!!!!

Salar de Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni, this promised to be one of the highlights of the trip to South America. While in San Pedro the Atacama, a small city in Chile I met several people who planned to make the same trip. On the first day of arrival I went to the office of Estrelle del Sur, the company that had the best references on the web, with Daniel, a britisch guy and Femke from Amersfoort. We booked for leaving Saturday the 12th, a 3-day trip.

At the hostel we already met Andy and Olivia, an Irish couple, well, Irish, they´d been living in Australia for a while. Early in the morning we left for the bus that would drop us of at the Bolivian border. We had some discussion about the temperature, but oh, was I glad to wear my longjohns once arriving at the Bolivian border post. Mucho frijo, very very cold.

After all the formalities we grabbed our stuff and gor in the 4-wd, our driver and guide, Simon, who just spoke a little bit of English. This day we passed awesome sights, like the laguna verde (green lake, right up), some rock formations, an awesome view at the hot spring (pic 3) and we ended up at the laguna roja, red lake. Here we dropped our bags for the night, had some lunch before we went to the lake. Really amazing, the lake, coloured red and white, the flamingo´s, an amazing view.. This all at a hight of approx 4800 meters.

After returning to the hostel (cold, 2 (dirty) toilets, used by us and a group of french tourists) we had a good dinner and I went to bed early. I got really mumivized (don´t know if this is correct english), halfway during the night I woke up because it was to warm. I was about the only one, since the rest was really freezing, even with all their clothes on.

The second day it would be a long trip, first passing some great rocks, followed by four different lakes. At one of these we enjoyed our lunch. A good lunch! From here we moved on, went over a salt flat for over an hour and via San Juan we ended up at the salt hotel, really an amazing place to stay and.... With an hot shower, YES (sorry Femke and Daniel.. Who had an icy shower, mine was hot...). After the shower we had dinner and a few wines, went to bed around 11, while we had to get up before 5 am for the sunrise at the salt flat.

5.15 am, ready to go, to the ´Salar de Uyuni´... The largest salt flat in the world, amazing views and losing the idea of depth. Watching the sunset, taking some trick photo´s, going to the cactus field and more trick photo´s... It was really great Andy and Olivia, I was glad you were there (since the others could only think of some football and wanted to take pictures when we were leaving)... I was kind of hoping on something strange for a photo... And there it was, a crazy Japanese guy, who was already cycling for four months, showed up at the horizon, yes, magnificent!!

Later on we watched some salt stacks, salt that is exported, the old salt hotel and then we went to Uyuni, the train cemetery, a lunch and it was time to find a hostel and book a bus to Pootosi... Really, this 90 dollar trip (ok, 10 US extra costs, so 100$) was worth it, several times, the views, the experience, one of the most amazing places on the globe!!!

Potosi

Hola, I just arrived in Sucre, the white city. It currently is 5.55 pm, so in Holland 10.55 pm.You will have to wait for the salar the uyuni, it will be a longer blog with more pics. Also some youtube movies...

Yesterday morning I left Uyuni, going to Potosi. An old mine city and the highest city of its size in the world, 4070 meters high.. I went by bus, where in Peru the busses were quite organized and luxury, this 6 hour and 4 dollars costing trip was quite different.. A lot of locals, who smelled terribly. All the others I met at Uyuni were at other busses, but a girl from Costa Rica sat next to me. We had a great chat.

The trip was bumpy, loads of rain (first time) and thunder.. was happy to arrive at Potosi.. Later on I met those Costa Rican´ girls again and we had dinner together (the bill, ten dollars for 4 persons, ok my meal was the most expensive one, 2,50 euro, including drinks)! This after I booked my mining tour at Greengo tours, where I was helped very friendly... After dinner I read a bit and went to sleep early.

This morning the tour.. Amazing, really, Julio was a great tourguide, but the mines, the circumstances.. We first went to the market (me and an australia guy and Britisch girl), bought some coca leaves, cigarettes, soft drinks and DYNAMITE! for the miners! We were shown around in a refinery, and then the mines...

It is quite a disadvantage being 1.91 in a country where most people are around 1.60. Especially going into he mines.. At some places it was between 1.50 and 1.60 for50-100 meters. quite hard, bending, walking. The unique thing about this tour was the mine being fully operational! So the miners were working hard under severe conditions, medieval almost for 12-14 hours a day for 12 euro´s a day. It was quite hard to breathe at this hight and in the narrow dusty mine. We saw a lot, gave away the dynamite, the drinks and coca leaves. At a certain moment it simply was enough, and coincidentally it was also the end of the tour. Then it was case getting back, already exhausted. Only the path was blocked (hight around 1.50) by the carriages for the minerals (Zink, Lead and some Silver). The only way to make it to the exit was climbing over those things, quite an adventure on its own. It was a great tour, thanks Julio!

From the Greengo Tours office they booked a ´collectivo´ for me to Sucre. A collectivo is a taxi with four people (the others were locals) that drops you of at the place of destination.. Costs, 3,50 euros, 2,5 hour drive!

I am staying at the hostel colon (3,50 euro a night), Sucre, I will be here for approx 2 weeks. Tomorrow I will go to the language school to book two weeks of private spanish lessons!

Well, this is all for now, pics and movies from the Uyuni will follow later (some movies are already uploaded to youtube), take care!!!!

Chile

Hola, just a brief message.. I´m already in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, out here to book my trip to the salar de uyuni. Just arrived with the night bus, 12 hours from Arica, 2 hours Tacna-Arica and 6 hours Arequipa-Tacna.. In between 5 hours waiting in Arica, the bus station, so quite a trip!!

Later more, or tomorrow or in a few days after I arrive in Uyuni/Potosi/Sucre...

Colca Canyon

Colca Canyon, a three day trip, an awesome trip. This time I will do it in Dutch...

Zaterdag ochtend vrij vroeg vertrokken Ed (een Brit die ik in Nazca trof en de eerste 2 dagen mee ging) en ik richting het bus station, richting de colca canyon, één van de diepste canyons in de wereld, waar ook condors te zien zijn (al heb ik ze niet gezien!).

Dankzij Femke (bedankt) kon ik gemakkelijk aan een adres komen zodat de tour door de colca individueel kon, ipv een georganiseerde tour. Gesproken met een Nederlandse die hier in Peru woont en het ´heilige´ roze papiertje ontvangen met de route en slaapplaatsen. (oh ja, ik werd om twee redenen gewaarschuwd voor de trip, hoogteziekte, behoorlijke kans en mijn zwakke knie)

Na een busrit van ruim 3 uur kwamen we aan in Yangue, La Posada de Yangue, vriendelijk ontvangen, spaghetti als lunch en vervolgens een tour door de man des huizes langs mooie plaatsen, ruines stammend uit het inca tijdperk. Na een wandeling van ongeveer 3,5 uur kwamen we aan bij de hot springs, een heerlijk bad genomen om vervolgens terug te gaan naar het hostel. Een overheerlijke maaltijd en vroeg op, 4.15 om de bus te halen naar Abanaconde.. Van hieraf zou ik er alleen voor staan, Ed stapte uit bij de Cruz del Condor (Condor view point). Even een prijs indicatie voor jullie, 2 maaltijden + overnachting, 32 soles, ofwel 8 euro...

Nu stond ik er alleen voor, een afdaling van 1200 meter (nadeel van afdaling, je moet ook weer omhoog). Een gids van een andere groep wees even welke kant ik op moest en gaan... Een stijle helling, schrale lucht op bijna 3400 meter hoogte, een mooie uitdaging.. Het was zwaar, maar uiteindelijk (na bijna 4 uur) beneden aangekomen bij Oasis voor een lunch en even zwemmen.. (foto is een deel van de afdaling) Onderweg veel mensen ontmoet, oa uit Frankrijk, Zwitserland, Duitsland, Slowakije. Na de lunch aan de andere kant van de canyon naar boven.. Ruim 500 meter... Ongeveer na iedere bocht of 2 bochten lucht happen! Even bijkomen en doorgaan. Na ongeveer 400 meter waren de locals op een veldje aan het voetballen (in 25 graden, 2500 meter hoogte). Af en toe een praatje onderweg.. 20 minuten (yes) vlak lopen voor ik doorging naar de volgende afdaling.

Tegen 5.15 na een klein klimmetje kwam ik aan bij de Posada de Roy, mijn verblijf voor deze nacht. Geen electriciteit, koken op een houtkachel, wel een heerlijke warme douche. Over rotsen en door droogte daar naartoe gelopen, aankomen in een groene bloemrijke oase! na een maaltijd vroeg gaan slapen na een babbeltje met een paar canadezen. Tot de volgende ochtend...

Iets voor 2, ja jullie lezen het goed, iets voor 2 ´s nachts opgestaan... Een klim van ongeveer 1200 meter voor de boeg, eerst een afdaling naar de brug. Dit allemaal in het donker, best spannend moet ik zeggen.. Rotsen, losliggende stenen. Het leuke was dat ik in gezelschap was, twee honden, die me vergezelden en over me waakten. Na ongeveer 2 uur lopen kwam een local me voorbij met een paar ezels. Vervolgens genieten van het aanbreken van de dag. Echt waanzinnig, het uitzicht. Daarna een paar locals getroffen, handjes geschud, puffend en steunend gevraagd of het nog ver was, ja, nog ver! Echt, enorm zwaar, maar..... Gelukt!!! Geen last van hoogte ziekte, vrijwel geen spierpijn, wel een aanslag op mijn longen, welke ik nu nog voel!

Vervolgens een bus laten stoppen, daar ingesprongen naar de cruz del condor. Niets gezien, al werden ze later wel gesignaleerd. Op het bus station was het vervolgens net een reunie met alle mensen die ik had getroffen.. Een groep meiden was maar met de ezel omhoog gegaan. Eén van de franse die ik trof is echt enorm onwel geworden tijdens de klim. Blij dat ik het solo heb gedaan, eigen ritme, luisterend naar mijn lichaam. Dan maar ietsje langzamer dan anderen, maar wel fit! Gisteravond nog gegeten met een Zwitserse die een jaar lang op pad gaat.. Vanavond waarschijnlijk met een Britse hier uit het hostel, ze houd er niet van zich te binden maar is hier om te kijken of het wat wordt met haar vriendje die ze tijdens een eerdere reis heeft ontmoet..

Nu zit ik nog in Arequipa, ga morgen of overmorgen door naar Tacna om de grens met Chili over te steken. Ik was namelijk één van mijn handdoeken vergeten in Nazca en deze komt morgen hier in Arequipa. De volgende fatsoenlijke internet kans zal in Chili zijn, San Pedro de Atacama, vlak voor ik begin aan één van de hoogtepunten van deze reis, de ´Salar de Uyuni´!

Nazca

Well, today at Nazca, just had the flight, amazing, those lines.. Though I was so happy I did not have breakfast.. It kind of makes you sick, all those turns. People still wonder about these lines that have been around for ages!

Tonight leaving for Arequipa where I will stay a few days and do the colca canyon, hopefully I will see some condors there!

Here some links: The coast at Lima
Road to Nazca, Pisco 1, and 2. The flight over the Nazca lines 1, and 2.

I`ll be away for a few days, colca canyon, on my own with a british dude for a part of it... I´ll b back monday late, to you in holland tuesday! See ya

Leaving Lima

A few days Lima, walking around, meeting up with people, from Cuba, Germany, the US, Australia, Canada. It was fun, though it was meant tu get used to the atmosphere.. Temperatures around 15 celsius, almost an eternal mist, and barely any sun.. Event though the eternal mist, you do get sunburned.

Today was kind of exciting, my first trip with a taxi and the first bus trip. At the moment I´m almost 450 km south of Lima, Nazca, known for the famous Nazca Lines which I´ll fly over tomorrow. During the 7 hour bus trip we went through Pisco and Ica, two cities that were harmed most by the earthquake. It really had a huge impact and seeing it made impact on me.

Tomorrow, first the Nazca lines, then a bit of relaxing, late at night I will take the night bus to Arequipa. Another 650 km to the south. Here I will stay a few days, nice weather (though here it is nice to) and hiking through the colca canyon. I don´t know yet where I will stay there. Since I will arrive in the morning it is relaxed to find a place.

I will also post a few movies on youtube (also from Pisco where you can see the tents and the destroyed houses), the link will follow!!
Well, this is it for now, till next time.

Arrived in Lima

Hola,
just a brief message for everyone that I arrived in Lima, save and sound... More tomorrow...

...
Well, here a bit more.. I arrived yesterday after a long flight.. In the morning I overslept, stupid stupid me. Luckily my parents were so friendly to wake me on time, since they were my taxi to the airport, thanks mom and dad!

The flight was long, exhausting.. I slept a bit, talked to some english and slovenian people and according schedule we arrived at Lima. First they pasport check, followed by the custums. They do randomk checks here, pushing a button determines either you gotta get a red sign, which implies you will be heked, or a green one.. Mine was green, continue!

My pick-up was standing there, too bad he only spoke spanish. Once in the hostel I swithed rooms since there was no locker available.. Last night I experienced the luxury of having the room (with shower) all to myself. I already met up with some people, though most of them are leaving in the next days. Today (7 hours time difference) I will relax, walk around, read spanish words and get used to the life pace here!!! Get a great (3-4 dollar) meal somewhere, but first a starbucks, while I still can...

The day after tomorrow I will move south, probably to nazca, followed by Arequipa.. I do not know the extend to which internet is available.

Take care!